https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog daily 0.75 2026-03-17 https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/why-do-you-keep-training-your-reactive-dog-and-see-no-results monthly 0.5 2026-03-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1756306454839-3WDBFQ33GAIY1B5A8JQ2/unsplash-image-qwYC_4zLFaw.jpg Blog - Why do you keep training your reactive dog and see no results? - I remember this from my own experience. I hear it from dog owners reaching out to me. If you struggle with your dog being reactive and feel like nothing works, you’re not alone. And let’s get this straight: your dog is not untrainable or too old to learn new things. You just haven’t received the help you need yet. Let me try pointing you the right direction. Do you know reasons behind your dog’s behavior? Often people have no idea why their dog behaves aggressively / anxiously. Sometimes they overcompensate and label behaviors with “he is a Doberman, they’re always anxious” or “that’s a Shiba Inu, they can’t ever be trusted off leash”. Your first task with your dog trainer should always be in gathering hypotheses to understand the cause. Tricky part is, there is almost never THE cause but multiple factors influencing your dog’s behavior. For example, leash reactivity is often caused by these things mixed together: Low frustration tolerance — your dog wants to have contact to other dogs Negative experiences — your dog was attacked by other dogs Hormonal changes — puberty, for example, is defined by dogs being impulsive Social & territorial factors — your dog barks only at specific dogs / in specific places / with specific people Self-reinforcement — barking feels good and leads to a result your dog wants Once you’ve gathered your “reasons why”, it’s time to work on these, one by one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1762865427549-XJPHU5HWJFJJS889VAPF/unsplash-image-pVLYZDMiczA.jpg Blog - Why do you keep training your reactive dog and see no results? - Treating a symptom or a problem? I know from my own experience, that often when you come to a dog trainer with a reactive dog, they usually give you one of these “solutions”: Distract your dog with toys or treats Let your dog get used to a presence of other dogs Correct unwanted behavior physically Avoid problematic situations, walk on a bigger distance around triggers The thing is, following these strategies won’t resolve your problem. And in some cases, doing some of these may strengthen unwanted behaviors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1762865862592-4GRPDSRWMS38OX6ISZZZ/unsplash-image-Nd4QONIOs5M.jpg Blog - Why do you keep training your reactive dog and see no results? - Do you have a structure? Instead of jumping into cold water unequipped, you need a clear preparation plan. In most cases, working on your main problem will happen at the end of your training plan. For example, a typical plan for working with leash reactivity looks like this: Relationship check so that your dog takes you seriously Frustration tolerance — your dog can deal with heavy emotions Mindset work for you to understand what does “leading a dog” exactly mean Resolving side-conflicts to learn how to communicate and polish your techniques Basic obedience — a skillset for your dog Resolving main problem — working fully equipped and experienced https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/frustration-tolerance monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1756991664629-Q0JBDPQY5SHDOMLPYAK9/unsplash-image-FwWTH1-O6xI.jpg Blog - Frustration tolerance: why is it so important and what does it have to do with reactivity - Frustration tolerance is an ability to live through and accept a feeling of not getting what you wanted. From human experience, examples that may help you understand this concept better, would be: Imagine knowing that there is an event / party you’d rather visit going on, but you have to finish your work. Imagine being on a diet and limiting your sugar intake and passing by a bakery with freshly prepared sweets. Try to remember events from your life when someone rejected you: your ex-partner told you about the break up; a potential employer declined your application; your friend didn’t invite you somewhere you’d rather be. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1756993096915-UM0VQNAPG1H78QCTIVPW/unsplash-image-8caRaJOLgwA.jpg Blog - Frustration tolerance: why is it so important and what does it have to do with reactivity - Typical misconceptions about frustration tolerance: Frustration tolerance and impulse control are the same. Not true. Impulse control is an ability of a dog to not react to a trigger (say, when a cat is jumping on the street in front of them). Frustration tolerance is an ability to cope with hard feelings. These two things overlap a lot, but impulse control is about an action whereas frustration tolerance is about a state of mind. Asking a dog to sit when you put their food bowl down will improve their frustration tolerance. Not true. This will improve their “Sit” command and probably their basic obedience. What’s crucial is that frustration tolerance is accepting that you can’t get something — not sitting pretty until you’re allowed to have it. Frustration tolerance has nothing to do with commands. Frustration tolerance can be trained using positive reinforcement only. Not true. As I’ve mentioned in the previous part, it is about one’s ability to stay calm when you can’t get what you want. You can’t train it through giving the dog what they want. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1756994947673-O6C5VUJI2849F2NT3IL4/unsplash-image-EUMLCSMmYOo.jpg Blog - Frustration tolerance: why is it so important and what does it have to do with reactivity - How to improve frustration tolerance Many dogs learn this skill throughout life, seamlessly. In many cases, though, they need help and deliberate practice to get better. Good news is: it can be taught and improved. Bad news is: sometimes behavior turns into a habit and we have to work not only with the reason but also with the symptom / side effect directly. An approach we would implement in training is: pointing out frustrating situations from easy to difficult; once or twice a day, going into a situation where your dog is frustrated, waiting for them to calm down, and then going out of the situation. Some examples for you: Sparkle loved playing with other dogs in a park by the house. Every time they walked by the park, Sparkle would pull towards it, jump forward and bark if her owner had to stop on the traffic light or slowed down; sometimes she would bite the leash. Training plan included going towards the park and once Sparkle starts pulling (minor reaction), the owner had to find a safe place to stop and not move. She waited while Sparkle was pulling and jumping — until the dog would lay down and look relaxed. Then they would turn around and continue their walk a different direction. With time, distance to the park became smaller, and Sparkle was able to calmly pass it by and even stay relaxed if her owner entered it and sat on a bench instead of letting Sparkle off leash to play. Sam would love to sit with their owner on a terrace and started barking if the owner accidentally closed the doors without letting Sam out. Training plan included that the owner would 3-4 times a week go out on a terrace and left Sam locked inside. Once Sam stopped barking and looked chill, the owner would come back inside. https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/reasons-behind-dog-reactivity monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755868422754-3IDZ99E6CCNSJRCRYL2U/unsplash-image-MXXlyRgtIPc.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Lack of socialisation Socialisation is a process when a dog gets familiar with this world, with their family members (I’m talking about both families — natural dog-family and a human-family where they get to live) and family rules, with other humans, animals, objects that surround us in our daily lives. There are times in dog’s life when this process goes well because their brains are especially good in building new connections. Different scientists talk about different periods, but one of the most common referral points here is a study by American scientists Scott and Fuller “Dog Behavior. The Genetic Basis” (1965) where authors claim that the age between 3 and 12 weeks old is critical for social development of a dog. It means, that things a dog learns in this age are normally very stable and long-lasting. On the contrary, if a dog makes no experiences with the outside world (for example, while growing on a “puppy mill” with very little exposure), they tend to develop behavioral problems in the future, become overly fearful or/and aggressive in social communication. Moreover, “bad” experience is better than no experience at all. It is common for dogs who had no experience with humans when they were young to fear people in general and sometimes to react aggressively towards strangers. It is also common for dogs who grew up in poor conditions, never being exposed to other dogs, to not know how to communicate with other dogs, and jump into aggressive behaviors quickly. Good news is, dogs learn livelong. With enough structure and patience, there is a chance to improve your dog’s social skills at any age. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755870123372-XND57GME1O0M5N7GF809/unsplash-image-URNchLmmZss.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Low frustration tolerance This is what I see in a lot of dogs coming into training. Frustration tolerance is an ability to accept that not everything goes as you wish. It’s not about sitting pretty before your human puts a food bowl on the floor — it’s about calmly accepting that you’d love to run to the dog walking in front of you but you can’t. To make it more clear: frustration tolerance is not about bribing, distracting and even obediently following a command. It’s about tolerating strong emotions and not exploding. Dogs (and people) learn this when faced with frustrating situations. There is no nice way to teach this because you can’t learn to go through hard emotions without experiencing these emotions. Not if you’re a dog and can’t learn from a book, at least. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755870605262-JY6ESW204NVJQ26UA11X/unsplash-image-aJ2a-VnX68Y.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Territorial aggression Another very common issue is territorial aggression. You have it if your dog reacts aggressively to other dogs around your neighbourhood but is friendly or indifferent towards dogs when you travel. Different dogs have different radius — it can be solely your garden or 3 km around your house. Also, time needed to become possessive over territory varies greatly — some dogs start protecting the cafe terrace you’ve entered 5 minutes ago, others may need weeks living in a new neighbourhood to start showing same patterns there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755871036416-MI3LHJFVA9A1QULFBRUW/unsplash-image-fjc3vBz398A.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - light cycle aggression Many dogs are more reactive then it’s dark outside. Normally, the reason behind this is smart genetics — hunting and territory & livestock guarding dogs were for generations being selected because they were good at this. Nighttime is usually when wild animals and all other possible intruders are active, so dog types mentioned above are predisposed to be more alarmed when it’s dark outside. Another possible reason would be copying their human patterns. Most of people are more careful when it’s dark, more likely to be suspicious about weird sounds, more prone to be scared if a stranger appears from around the corner. Dogs feel this and get nurtured from your emotions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755871530501-JTSIOM4P1Z0MUQ04DH4E/unsplash-image-Ju9SHHF1TGw.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Hunting behavior Most commonly, reactivity looks like aggression, but sometimes it is, in fact, hunting behavior (or a mixture of both). Hunting behavior is, unlike aggression, emotionless. It requires a quick and well-estimated action with no time & need for threatening your prey. Normally, hunting behavior is shown in an appropriate context only (with prey animals) but sometimes prey-motivated dogs start hunting little dogs, kids, joggers and even scooters. Another problem happens when a dog starts mixing aggression and hunting. Technically, the function of aggressive behavior is to secure one’s safety and keep important resources with as little conflict as possible. The function of hunting behavior is to get food (meaning, killing of the prey is necessary). I’m not sure I have to keep explaining why this can be greatly dangerous. As you may have guessed, hunting dog breeds are more predisposed to show this, but all dogs have hunting drive to a certain extent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755872614207-B5B2WDRI2NZ3S63M3F94/unsplash-image-SK8NdSRUkFA.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Mixing drives Did you ever see how dogs play nicely, and one second later they are hanging in each other’s fur violently? Well, it happens when dogs struggle to differentiate between the motives / drives. They jump from play to aggression, from aggression to hunting, from play to hunting, and vice versa. This happens to younger dogs commonly, and technically speaking, they are supposed to learn to differentiate the contexts where each behavior is (not) appropriate with age. But it’s not what always happens. Risk factors are breeds who are predisposed to mix drives (like Jack Russel Terriers, for example) and dogs with low frustration tolerance in general. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755873202169-J1ZHXY66ZL7JX4RZHWHM/unsplash-image-Jzs9SV0gt1k.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Ressource Aggression Dogs may show aggressive behavior when they think that something they own is at risk. They want to protect their resources. Their resources may be physical items (a toy, a leash, food), spaces (their neighbourhood — yes, technically, “territorial aggression” mentioned above is a part of resource aggression) or their social partner (dog or human). The first one seems pretty obvious, the second one was already covered above, let me talk about the third kind of resources here. When we are speaking about resource guarding a dog or a human, you have to understand one thing. It’s not that your dog loves you so much that they would’t want others to hurt you (yes, sometimes there is this motivation, but it doesn’t really look like reactivity). It’s that your dog thinks that you belong to them, and no one else should ever approach you. It can be directed against other dogs as well as humans. The same counts when your dog is resource guarding another dog — this is possessive aggression. Sexual aggression when dog secure a mate for themselves and push other dogs of the their gender away, is the same story. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755873887103-LMXPTJPBJU6UKLNP2WAB/unsplash-image-wOflgXfMZNs.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Learned aggression This is one of the most complicated kinds. What happens is that your dog has learned that showing aggressive behavior helps them, and then they start showing it without any real need. For example, your dog got attacked by a black labrador one day. They got scared and wanted to defend themselves. Next time they see this black labrador, they get all defensive, and the other dog backs off. Success. Next time your dog sees a black rottweiler and decides that it looks similarly to the black lab, so why not scaring it off as well. Success. Next time you meet a black pudel, or a black terrier, and your dog thinks: better safe than sorry. Attack. Success.This story can go on and on, and no one can predict when it stops. Sometimes it comes to the point that a dog tries to attack every other dog because this strategy has helped them so far. This can work with all kinds of previously mentioned types. One time your dog saw a need to be loud and bold, and they may decide to try it again. Sometimes they need many repetitions to learn the strategy, sometimes one is enough. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755874556626-HX0OMH9GMPQCT2AVGBVE/unsplash-image-ugQYZxFbKsA.jpg Blog - Reasons behind dog reactivity - Breed predisposition There is no such thing as reactivity predisposition but your dog may be indirectly predisposed to it. Here are some examples: livestock guarding dogs and other guarding dogs as well as primitive breeds are often territorial, sceptical towards strangers and aggressive towards the dogs of their own sex working dogs were created to be very responsive, so they tend to have low frustration tolerance terrier dogs and dachshunds (and some other hunting breeds) were bred to hunt independently and sometimes kill their prey, so they tend to mix drives https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/common-mistakes-in-working-with-reactive-dogs monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755781434186-K2SQAXQ7RJBSARUPZJ4M/unsplash-image-6Lf1kzL4AfY.jpg Blog - Common mistakes in working with reactive dogs - Before you move further, you need to find out what’s bothering you: no progress at all, slow progress or steady aggravation. If you’re working with a professional dog trainer, you may often see that progress happens slower than you wished. Here is what’s important to check: Have you set not only a big goal but also intermediate ones? You should have a clear overview of how your training ladder looks like, and you should see that you’re moving step by step. An example of goal ladder for “Calmly passing other dogs” I’ve had with my dog when he was reactive: Walking in heel command (quietly, focused on me) in calm areas with no distractions + being recallable Being recallable in calm areas when seeing calm dogs on a 20+ meter distance Walking in heel command in calm areas when seeing calm dogs on a 15+ meter distance Walking in heel command in calm areas past calm dogs on a small distance Same as above but with triggering dogs (fooling around, staring, barking) Walking in heel command in busy areas past calm dogs on a small distance Walking in heel command in busy areas past triggering dogs on a small distance Staying calm (no lunging) without heel command when passing other dogs Passing the “worst enemy” dog and staying focused on me, no lunging Technically, the ladder was even more detailed — I’ve pointed out our main bullet points. If you have the same structure with your dog, and you know where you’re standing, and you move from one point to another, you’re good. If you see that you’ve been stuck on one level for too long, you need to change something. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755783182849-R5ISDX7RAQ7MJC8MVLCI/unsplash-image-9RsmUgKWFE4.jpg Blog - Common mistakes in working with reactive dogs - What’s worse than being stuck is noticing an aggravation. The most common reasons here are: You strengthen your correction constantly — if your dog didn’t get your “normal” leash impulse, you make it stronger once again, and then again. In every difficult situation you follow this pattern instead of analysing the situation. You let your emotions rule and lose your temper when training your dog. You start from the hardest problem right away without doing any pre-work. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1755789925674-XGQO5JLHGPRRLC4ODPJK/unsplash-image-ZUfMEmtWWW0.jpg Blog - Common mistakes in working with reactive dogs - Training a reactive dog needs knowledge, structure, patience, consequence and trust. If you need an advice from an expert in problematic dogs’ training, get in touch with me. https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/how-to-train-a-reactive-dog monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1754580480245-55L6MXXA88A9MLCH2N46/unsplash-image-_h2saWr-LXo.jpg Blog - How to train a reactive dog - Definitions You may have heard of aggressive dogs, reactive dogs, problematic dogs. What’s what? Aggressive dog — is a colloquial term. Aggression is a behavioral category, and you can’t say that a dog is aggressive with no context. Let me even say: without a context, all dogs are “aggressive” because aggression is a normal part of dog’s behavioral repertoire. You may say “a dog aggressive towards strangers” which would mean that this dog tends to show aggressive behaviors in encounters with new people. Does it mean that this particular dog always bites humans? Nope. Aggressive behaviors include a wide range of different communicative signals: from staring in the eyes intensely to biting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1754646154797-R3AAVZV0XAUUU1V7LJQ4/unsplash-image-2fL2AtIT71U.jpg Blog - How to train a reactive dog - Problematic dog — as you may have guessed, it’s also not a scientific term. I define “problematic dogs” as those who regularly show behaviors that stress, overwhelm and hurt their owners. You know it if you feel worried about going out on a daily walk with your dog, panic if you see another dog owner approaching, feel bad because you can’t leave your dog at home or invite friends over. Behaviors you worry about can be very different, but most commonly it’s something about aggressive behaviors and exaggerated reactions in general. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1754647238174-7OB8HJ4WLHYNFK87KUGH/unsplash-image-gWzTum_yMCg.jpg Blog - How to train a reactive dog - And here are the juicy bits of explanation. Relationship check and house rules Very often, dogs do not take their humans seriously because all their wishes are always fulfilled the second they arise. Your motivation to do so is good: you think that by being nice to your dog, fulfilling their wishes and making their life exciting, you make their days stress free, get their energy out and gain their gratitude. Well, stress free days lead to inability of a dog to go through stressful events. Never hearing a “no” leads to being unable to accept it. “Getting their energy out” often consists of activities that speed a dog up and make them even more impulsive. Gratitude seems to be a too complex feeling — dogs live in a moment and try to get what feels best for them here and now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1754652212873-8YOYWW2DO30D8LUPRT90/unsplash-image-VehdYPKnX8Y.jpg Blog - How to train a reactive dog Side conflicts & basic obedience To resolve your main problem, we have to build up a foundation. To teach the dog things like “come”, “heel”, “leave it”, etc. But most importantly, it’s time for us to learn what your dog best responds to, what are the signs that they’re beyond the threshold, what’s the fastest way to calm them down, what motivates them and what stops them. Your dog learns here that your words matter, and listening to you pays off. Main conflict Only then we’re ready to approach the biggest problem you’re facing: with all our tools ready. We don’t avoid conflicts anymore. https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/dog-zurich-registration-process monthly 0.5 2026-02-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720631522979-UET8D1C8HD6P03S0JJN6/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - Part One: Before getting a dog / moving to Zürich with your dog If you’re renting a flat or house, make sure that your apartment allows pets. Not every landlord permits keeping pets, so check this before deciding to adopt a dog. You need to inform your landlord about your decision before the dog moves in. The landlord may make changes to your rental contract to include the dog in your insurance (Haftpflichtversicherung). If you own the house or flat you live in, update your insurance accordingly. Make sure to contact your insurance agent yourself to update the details (Haftpflichtversicherung). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1752491625943-SBM0C8QEAHHCGX4DCBQ5/unsplash-image-Ydo5KX06Nxk.jpg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) Make sure that the breed you’ve chosen / you already have is allowed in Zürich. There are dog breeds that are not allowed to live in the Canton of Zürich: American Bull Terrier American Bully American Bully XXL American Pit Bull Terrier American Pocket Bully American Staffordshire Terrier Bandog Basicdog Bull Terrier Pit Bull Terrier Rottweiler (new dogs can’t move in from the start of 2025) Staffordshire Bull Terrier Swiss Blue Bully Swiss Champagner Bully The list is copied from the website of the Canton of Zürich. If your dog is officially a mix containing more than 10% of any of these breeds, it’s also forbidden. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720633595825-L8S9CUI7OR3EW8BO4BWH/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - Part two: things to keep in mind These rules are quite common in most European countries, but it is still important to mention them: The dog must be microchipped. Switzerland is considered a rabies-free country. Therefore, if you bring your dog from a country that is not rabies-free, it must be vaccinated against rabies, or your breeder may provide a certificate stating that the dog has not been in contact with any animals that may have had rabies. Part Three: As soon as your dog moves in Within ten days of adoption or moving in, you must register your dog with your Gemeinde (local authority). If you live in Zürich, Horgen, or Zollikon, start with their respective authorities. If you live in another city within the Canton of Zürich, search on Google for “Hund registrieren Stadt [your city].” You will receive login credentials to access AMICUS (the national animal database). Within the same ten-day period, visit a veterinarian of your choice. The vet will complete your registration in the AMICUS system. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720635797006-F1X2MJ3FC6MFWACYTDZ5/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - Part four: Education for dog owners After following the steps mentioned above, you will receive a letter with a bill to pay the dog tax. At this point (at the latest), you have to start thinking about training courses. Starting from 01.06.2025, all dogs moving to the Canton of Zürich must complete obligatory training courses. The size of your dog does not matter. More about that in the next part. Please note: if your dog was already living with you in the Canton of Zürich before the 1st of June 2025, the new rules do not apply to you, and you do not need to take the new obligatory courses. There are two obligatory courses that dog owners have to complete in Zürich: the Theory Course and the Practical Course. More information about them will follow in the next parts. I will go into details in a second, but I just wanted to say that I strongly recommend taking a theoretical course before adopting a dog and even before making a decision about adoption (you can take it up to one year before getting a dog). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1752491375490-LN7CZZ4C2SNQVHTDDSWE/unsplash-image-t6xIvMfsmEI.jpg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - Part five: obligatory training. Theory Course The Theory Course is obligatory for all dog owners, except for: Those who have had a dog in the last 10 years for at least 6 consecutive months (for foreigners: unfortunately, I don’t know if you can avoid this course in case you’ve had a dog in the last 10 years while living abroad. Please check with the Veterinary Office of Zürich). Those who take over a dog from their partner if they have lived together (including the dog) for at least 6 consecutive months. Dog owners who take over a specially trained assistant dog (e.g., Blindenführhund) from a registered organisation. The Theory Course should be completed anytime between one year before getting a dog and up to a maximum of two months after the dog has moved in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1752492223228-FU8AKPGZFNBLP104LH3R/unsplash-image-dOTIcvV1Ck4.jpg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) How a theory course for dog owners looks like: you have to attend a 2 to 2.5-hour theory class. This can be done either via an online call or in person. The dog trainer leading the course must ensure that you were present. After this, you have to pass an exam. The exam must be taken either in person or via a specific online learning tool; it cannot be done through a simple online call. The test consists of 25 questions (single and multiple choice, matching, and sorting questions). To pass, you need to answer at least 20 questions correctly. If you do not pass, you have the right to retake the test, but not on the same day. According to the regulations, you may take as many attempts as needed. After completing the course, your dog trainer must add this information to AMICUS. You are allowed to complete the course and exam separately at different dog training schools. You are also allowed to complete the practical course at a different dog training school. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1752492266291-RTQYHGTOFWIVBZP38EN2/unsplash-image-sjYKio1FfZw.jpg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - Part SIX: obligatory training. Practical Course The Practical Course is obligatory for all dogs, except: Those who were more than 10 years old when moving to the Canton of Zürich. In cases where the new owner took over a dog from their partner, provided they have lived together (including the dog) for at least 6 continuous months and the dog has already completed the course with that partner. Dogs who have completed a similar dog training course (this must be confirmed directly with the Veterinary Office). Specially educated assistant dogs (e.g., guide dogs) from a registered organisation. Dogs working for the police (or other official organisations) or registered livestock guarding dogs used as workforce. The course must be completed at a minimum when the dog is 7 months old and no later than 12 months after the dog has moved in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1752493116859-FJG3MC60RQGUMAQSFWTN/unsplash-image--zDWDaFrP44.jpg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - How a practical course for dog owners look like: You have to attend 6 practical lessons, each lasting 60 minutes. There should be a minimum of one week between lessons. There is a list of goals you must complete during these lessons. If the goals are not achieved within the 6 lessons, you will need to take additional training sessions. Lessons can be group or private — it does not matter. After completing the course, your dog trainer has to add this information to AMICUS. You are allowed to take theory and practical courses at different dog training schools. Additionally, you may change your dog school after just a few sessions — in this case, your dog trainer must provide a document stating the number of lessons taken and the goals achieved. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1752494181418-JWUOK7KZDHO96Z5IRWFT/unsplash-image-GAkUXHGEc0o.jpg Blog - Adopting a dog in Zürich (June 2025 version) - Conclusion Once you’ve completed the steps above, you’re all set. You just have to keep paying your dog tax slips, which you will receive yearly by post. There are no obligatory vaccinations or medical procedures if your dog doesn’t leave Switzerland; nevertheless, the rule of thumb is to visit a vet yearly. Sad but inevitable: unfortunately, dogs don’t live forever. When it’s time, you need to register the event of death in AMICUS (your veterinarian will surely support you with this if you have any troubles). https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/care-for-your-dog monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720808115879-5B4JBJZOISBQ0Z581EPJ/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Cosmetic & medical care for your dog - Fur and skin Brushing for dogs with curly hair or hair prone to tangling: at least once a week for dogs during shedding: every other day other than that: when you notice dirty or tangled hair; more or less once a week Washing as seldom as possible, unless your dog has any skin condition that needs to be treated if your dog needs to be washed, remove dirt with water only if possible Grooming (haircut) for dogs with curly hair: monthly; full body for dogs with long hair around eyes: as often as needed to keep their eyes clear for other dogs: no grooming is required but may help you during shedding season Wrinkle cleaning and creaming certain dog breeds that have many wrinkles (like French Bulldogs or Shar Peis) may require regular care. Contact your veterinarian to create the routine your dog needs Paws may need creaming when it’s especially cold or hot outside hair between paw pads may be cut short in order to help keeping paws clean, avoid bacterial infections development in case of injuries and to provide your dog a better grip on slippery floors https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720808959689-W8R274XSMZC53KITE1JD/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Cosmetic & medical care for your dog - Eyes and ears You should not touch your dog’s eyes or ears unless it’s recommended by your veterinarian. Those areas are extremely sensitive and have a self-cleansing mechanism as long as complex microbiome that should not be unnecessarily influenced. If you notice excess scratching, redness or an unusual discharge, consult your veterinarian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720809773571-NK4XI638RWFSDCMP5H5C/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Cosmetic & medical care for your dog - Teeth Facts you need to know: High quality dog food helps to protect your dog’s teeth but is never a guarantee of healthy mouth area — the same as with humans, dogs have various bacteria in their mouth, and whilst one dog may have a lot of tartar, another will have none, even if both dogs are on the same diet. Dry food does not help to clean your dog’s teeth because dogs don’t chew kibbles — they simply crack them into smaller pieces and swallow. Special food additives can help to reduce tartar forming and unpleasant mouth smell though. Consult your vet for more information. Teeth cleaning as often as possible food leftovers can be removed with a finger-cleaner (special tissue you put on your index finger) and dog toothpaste tartar can me removed with an ultrasound toothbrush (check my recommendations here) or mechanically chewing items help reducing tartar forming https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720810874850-H0RQ4HFWX0XP1L1SORPD/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Cosmetic & medical care for your dog - Nails Nails should not touch the ground when your dog is standing straight on a flat surface. Some dogs manage to shorten their nails by themselves when walking on asphalt, in this case you may need to shorten only the dewclaws (the ones positioned higher on the leg). In case your dog has very strong nails or do not get enough asphalt walks, you need to shorten their nails approximately once a month. You can use a nail grinder or a nail clipper to do that. https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/how-to-choose-a-daycare monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720698650696-WZ3XXSLP8AF7XTPATKGI/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Choose the right day- / holidaycare or a trusted dog sitter - Want to find a trustworthy person with whom you could leave your dog on a holiday? Look for an opportunity to let your dog have contact to other dogs? Feeling that you need one day a week off from your dog-related duties? Here is your guide on how to choose a good caregiver for your dog. First, let me briefly outline all options you may consider if you need someone to look after your dog: your family and friends dog day- and holidaycare private dog sitter I guess, the first option is not available, otherwise you would have closed this page already. So, let’s get to it: how do you understand that a dog sitter or a dog boarding service is trustworthy? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720701237064-MUWVQ0J65PVGWI0ZV9LN/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Choose the right day- / holidaycare or a trusted dog sitter - Day- / holidaycare There are many individuals and businesses offering their services in this field. Finding the right one for you may be tricky. After working in a daycare for 1,5 years, and trying out 5 daycare facilities for my own dog, I’ve developed a checklist about how to choose a daycare: Group size — no more than 6-7 dogs Location — enough space for every dog to find their peace Activities — no all-day-playing Photos — every day; videos are a bonus Car — is equipped with safe kennels Equipment — dogs are never tied up together, each dog has their own leash Respect — all your requirements are fulfilled Trust — all your questions are answered Consistency for the dog — if your dog wears a harness only, no one is putting a collar on them without consulting you https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/1720699967815-YLCBVQPJ9AKMMQX3Q900/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Choose the right day- / holidaycare or a trusted dog sitter - Private dog sitter It is a great option if you have several dogs or / and your dog is very sensitive and needs extra care. I’m always recommending to find a private dog sitter if your dog has special requirements because of their age: whether it is a puppy or a senior dog. Normally, people in Switzerland use the website Petsitting24* to find a professional. Keep in mind: anyone can offer their services as a dog sitter / dog walker there, and normally those marketplaces have zero professional requirements to people using it for finding clients. Read reviews carefully, ask questions and trust your gut feeling. Of course, the checklist from above can also help you choose a reliable professional. At the end of this article you will also find a list of questions I recommend to ask before leaving your dog with a stranger. *I’m not affiliated with Petsitting24, and I have never used this platform to hire someone or to offer my services. https://www.boopcamp.ch/blog/puppy-first-things monthly 0.5 2025-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/451049aa-a7be-41c0-8a52-320225df7e02/Boopcamp-Puppy-training.jpg Blog - First Things to Teach to Your Puppy Photo by Dominika Roseclay https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/e5b5385c-d0a6-46c3-b1ae-d024fcc68d83/boopcamp-puppy-training01.jpg Blog - First Things to Teach to Your Puppy Tolerance to Distractions One of the first things you should teach your puppy is to tolerate distractions. Puppies are curious and easily distracted, which makes it challenging to keep their attention on you. Other than that, many young dogs struggle with switching off and chilling in busy areas like coffee houses or public transport. Socialise your puppy by bringing them to the train station, shopping mall, office, etc. Think of activities you want them to take part in in the future and show them that, for example, colleagues in your office are not there for playing with them all day. With practice, your puppy will learn to stay relaxed and focused on you, even in distracting situations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63863aec96058b7822a6bab5/70d1da94-31fb-482c-95a2-3bc6cf3f71a9/boopcamp-puppy-training02.jpg Blog - First Things to Teach to Your Puppy Respect for Your Things Lastly, it is crucial to teach your puppy to respect your things. Puppies love to chew on things, and they are not always able to differentiate between what is theirs and what is yours. To prevent destructive behavior, teach your puppy what they can and cannot chew on. Provide your puppy with toys and chews that are appropriate for their age and size. When you catch your puppy chewing on something they shouldn't, calmly redirect their attention to an appropriate toy or chew. 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